Several short weeks ago, my colleague asked for some recommendations for a short weekend break in Edinburgh. He was visiting with his wife for 48 hours, for a weekend of sight-seeing, food and drink. I absolutely loved putting together a list of my top spots, so I wanted to share them here.
Edinburgh is, of course, a beautiful and fascinating city. There are many many guides on where to go and what to do, so this post will not be featuring the classic tourist attractions, but more what to do in between them if you want a real flavour of the city. As an avid foodie, everywhere I love and have listed below serves in my opinion, very good food and drink.
I’ve split this post into sections for ease, and I truly hope that someone is encouraged to visit one of the fabulous places I’ve featured!
Eat
The Fishmarket, Newhaven https://www.thefishmarketnewhaven.co.uk/
Home to the best fish and chips I have ever had, The Fish Market in Newhaven exceeds everything you ever could expect from a chippy. All the favourites feature, including battered or breaded fish and chips, and homemade curry sauce made from scratch in-house. Eat in or takeaway, this joint boasts queues out the door. I ate at the bar within the restaurant area, with a crisp pint of locally brewed Paolozzi beer (absolutely delicious, do try).
Of course I had classic battered haddock and chips with mushy peas and tartare sauce. The meal leaves you feeling extremely satisfied, but without the greasy feeling. The batter is light, the chips are perfectly golden, and you can look out the window at the lighthouse. Divine.
Chez Jules https://www.chezjulesbistro.com/
My absolute favourite Edinburgh restaurant. Chez Jules, located on Hanover Street, is the most bustling, atmospheric French bistrot. Step aside fancy French cuisine, and tiny portions, this place is the home of robust, creamy, garlicky, classic French home cooking. Think pans of bubbling Dauphinoise brought to your table, free french bread and Salade Vert dressed with heady mustard French dressing, perfectly cooked steak with bone marrow butter, and creamy Chevre with walnuts.
The restaurant is always busy, dimly lit by only candles, always loud, and always delicious.
Baba is a relatively new addition to Edinburgh, but has become a firm favourite. The restaurant focuses on mezze and grills under a Middle-Eastern concept, with a slight twist.
Everything is absolutely bursting with flavour. This is what I am all about when it comes to food. I want strong, punchy flavours which blow you away. Each dish is beautiful, and sprinkled with fresh herbs aplenty. Top dishes for me were the labneh jewelled with nuts and muhummara scooped into fresh grilled pitta, and blackened potatoes in their charred skins stuffed with golden saffron creme fraiche and harissa.
Korean BBQ https://daochef.com/korean-bbq/
This place is somewhere you would honestly walk straight by without even a glance. The decor is nothing special, but that almost makes it even more special, because you are going there purely for the wonderful food, and the experience of cooking it with friends. Korean BBQ does exactly that, Korean BBQ, and it does it extremely well.
The first time we visited this restaurant, we were taken by Chinese friends who taught us what and how their Korean neighbours eat. We were sat at the table and brought plates of meat, vegetables and whole lettuce leaves. The meat had been marinaded and I’m told was outstanding. Each item was grilled on the table BBQ, then placed inside a lettuce leaf, drizzled with an oil-based dressing and wrapped up. A flavour explosion. Alongside, we enjoyed seafood pancake, and kimchi rice topped with a runny fried egg, and beer with soju, the traditional way – all delicious.
Drink
The Bon Vivant, https://bonvivantedinburgh.co.uk/
If you are a cocktail fan, The Bon Vivant is your go-to. This trendy but classic bar and restaurant offers a beautiful range of unique, specialised and exciting cocktails. Each drink describes its’ ingredients, glass and garnish. My personal favourite is the Chakai, an enchanting mix of Star of Bombay Gin, St Germain, Yuzu-shu Sake, Genmaicha Tea, Baron de Marck Champagne, with a garnish of Baby’s Breath flower.
Salt Horse http://www.salthorse.beer/
Like beer? Get yourself to Salt Horse. Salt Horse is home to hundreds and hundreds of global beers. The establishment is one half shop, and one half bar. Fancy something that isn’t in the bar? Head through the underground passage to the shop side, select from the many many bottles on offer, and then take it back through with you to the bar area for relaxed drinking by candlelight. The staff here really know their stuff, and will even give you the best glass for the type of beer you have chosen. A real gem, with a casual vibe just off of the Royal Mile.
The Jolly Judge https://www.jollyjudge.co.uk/
The Jolly Judge is what you would think of as a traditional Scottish drinking pub. A cosy little place, the carpet is tartan and there is a roaring open fire which is perfect for when you step inside having been in the Edinburgh elements.
Serving all the usuals, this place just has a quiet charm to it, and you can easily sit there all afternoon with a whiskey in hand.
Listen and Do
The Jazz Bar http://www.thejazzbar.co.uk/
An Edinburgh institution. The Jazz Bar, despite the name, shows a host of different music types from traditional Scottish folk, through to funk, and of course jazz. The music here is of the highest quality, and you can drop in any time from 5pm until 3am for live music Monday to Sunday. It’s the kind of place you find people of all ages, from all walks of life who have just come for a good time and a boogie! The Espresso Martinis are absolutely perfect, and the music is always superb – what more could you ask for?
The Stand Comedy Club https://www.thestand.co.uk/edinburgh/
The Stand hosts the best comedy in Edinburgh. Every night of the week you can be entertained by the plethora of acts. My favourite is Monday nights; £3 entry on the door, and a host of new comedians taking to the stage. It is always a laugh, as promised, and a supportive and friendly atmosphere. The loaded nachos are fantastic too!
The Southsider Pub Quiz, https://www.greatukpubs.co.uk/thesouthsideredinburgh
Every Thursday at The Southsider pub, the pub quiz takes place as it has done for over a decade. Dave has been writing and hosting the quiz for 15 years, and has become an Edinburgh legend. Renowned for its difficulty,the quiz consists of several rounds including music, general knowledge and current affairs, and a countdown-esque section. You may not come top (I have never even come close!) but you will have a really great time.